No. It is important that the dampness in the wall is cured first. Seek advice from professionals who do damp proofing before repainting to avoid reoccurrence of the problem.
If there are white fluffy deposits or white spots on the wall, your walls are victims of Efflorescence.
Efflorescence is a white crystalline deposit that forms on masonry surfaces as the masonry dries. Efflorescence is primarily caused by excessive moisture in the masonry and is simply part of the natural drying process. As the moisture in the mortar and brick, block, or concrete works its way out of the wall, it brings with it the salts that developed on the surface as the moisture evaporates.
Use TORGINOL EFFLO-CLEAN EFFLORESCENCE CLEANER - it chemically breaks down and removes efflorescence and salt deposits from concrete, brick, pavers, and other masonry surfaces.
Substrate preparation is very important before painting the floor:
- Check to ensure that the concrete floor does not have a moisture problem prior to painting:
- Tape a 2-foot square plastic sheet to the floor (use duct tape and tape around the entire perimeter of the plastic sheet).
- Leave in place on the floor for one or two days. Then check to see if moisture is present between the floor and the plastic.
- If moisture is present, painting should not be attempted. If the area is dry, then the surface can be painted.
- Smooth and sealed substrates should be handled with caution as these conditions will interfere with the proper adhesion of the paint.
- In case of smooth and sealed concrete, the use of etching solution is recommended. A perfectly etched floor should have a texture of a medium sized sand paper.
- Clean the surface to remove all contaminants such as dirt grease, and oil.
For application on low to medium traffic area, use TORGA FLOOR PAINT.
For application on medium traffic area, use RUBBERISED FLOOR PAINT.
For application on heavy traffic area, use EPOXY TOP COAT ENAMEL.
Always use TORGA Emulsion based paint on concrete substrates.
Alkyd/Oil-based paints are not recommended for many concrete surfaces, especially those in contact with ground moisture, because they will not adhere to damp surfaces. The alkali in concrete may react with the oil to form soap, resulting in poor adhesion, peeling and paint lifting from the surface.
Because of the smooth, slick, zinc-coated finish, galvanized substrates can be tricky to paint, therefore, before painting, it’s critical to prepare the surface properly.
Start by cleaning the galvanized metal thoroughly with Torginol Wash All -Washing Cleanser or by using Arbo Regular Thinner: rinse thoroughly with soap water.
Wipe the surface clean and allow it to dry completely.
Profiling the metal using Grinding or Impact tools will provide an adequate profile for a paint system to which to adhere.
Apply one coat of Arbo Antirus Metal Primer, followed by a coat of Arbo Antirus Finishing Paint.
No, you do not have to change the GI sheets unless they are in a really terrible condition.
You can give it a coat of paint like mentioned above but before you start painting, ensure:
- All the rust on the GI sheet is removed by using ARBO RUST-OUT Rust Dissolving Solution or by mechanical means. Ensure there is absolutely no rust.
- Wipe the surface clean with a dry cloth and ensure the surface is completely dry before painting.
After allowing the galvanized surface to weather for six months or chemically cleaning it to remove any oil or remnants of the galvanizing process, you can apply one coat of ARBO ANTIRUS METAL PRIMER directly to the metal followed by ARBO ANTIRUS Finishing Paint.
DO NOT apply an alkyd/oil-based paint directly to a galvanized metal surface because the oils will react with the zinc used in the galvanizing process, causing the paint to peel.
Induction time is the waiting period required between the time you mixed and the time you can start applying a two-part product, such as an EPOXY Paint.
Induction time allows the necessary chemical reactions between the two parts to begin so the coating will cure and perform properly.
In some high-solids materials, the liquid will become solid at the end of the potlife. In most cases though, the potlife refers to the amount of time you have to apply the coating before it gets to a critical point in the chemical reaction between the two parts. After the potlife period expires, the material will become difficult to apply and the adhesion, cure, and performance of the coating will be adversely affected. When working with these types of products, it's best to mix only what you can use within the potlife listed by the manufacturer.
A Primer is beneficial because it helps provide a uniform surface that promotes good adhesion of the topcoat. A primer can also serve a special purpose by sealing a porous surface, blocking out stains, preventing rust formation on iron and steel.
Most finish paints are designed to provide a decorative or protective finish for a substrate. In most situations, they do not provide the features of a primer, so it is always important to follow the manufacturer's recommended coating system.
It is best to avoid painting in direct sunlight as the heat from the sun's rays causes the paint to dry too quickly. This can cause a number of problems such as brush marks, lap marks, inadequate adhesion on the substrate.
No. The alkyd layer will get hard and brittle as it ages, but the latex underneath will remain flexible. As time passes, the latex layer will flex and move with the expansion and contraction of the substrate more than the alkyd topcoat will. This will compromise the adhesion of the alkyd to the underlying latex and cause the alkyd topcoat to peel.
Due to the high levels of humidity and condensation to which both kitchens and bathrooms are subjected, they become prone to paint cracking, peeling and mildew. In order to avoid these problems, TORGA SEMI-GLOSS paint is recommended. A semi-gloss paint has a higher sheen value which provides a harder finish and is easily washable.
The majority of alkyd paints when applied at room temperature will be dry-to-touch within six to eight hours and may be recoated within 16 hours.
Poor ventilation, low temperatures, thick films, and high humidity will increase these times. The drying time is different for each product. Please read the product label for further information.
The majority of latex paints when applied at room temperature will be dry-to-touch within one hour or less and may be recoated within four hours.
Poor ventilation, low temperatures, thick films and high humidity will increase these times. The drying time is different for each product. Please read the product label for further information.
Ventilation! Open windows and doors and ventilate well any room being painted. Warm air movement is the most effective paint-curing mechanism.
Remove any drapes and furniture, if possible, before painting. Paint fumes, even from latex paints, can permeate drapes, carpet and furniture. Cover furniture if it cannot be removed.
Mildew is a fungus (mold) that forms black, gray or brown spots on paint and other surfaces, particularly in damp, shady exterior or interior areas.
Mildew is caused by warm, humid conditions, poor air circulation and little direct sunlight, like under eaves or overhangs. Shrubbery planted too close to a building is an ideal place for mildew to grow. Mildew must be removed before painting or it will come through the new paint.
Use FUNGI-KILL biocidal solution on the affected areas, power wash to remove all the mildew growth from the substrate, spray Fungi-Kill solution on to the walls and scrub in with circular motion and allow it to react for 24 hours. Then pressure wash the substrate again and allow it to dry. Once the surface is clean and dry, the substrate is ready to paint over.
Always wear appropriate safety equipment (rubber gloves and eye protection) when using this solution, protect your shrubbery and plants with plastic sheeting. Keep away from pets, plant and children.
When beginning a paint project, you will want to consider the sheen — or the gloss level of the paint. The higher the gloss level, the shinier the appearance . You may want to go with different types of sheens for different areas of your home.
TORGA MATT emulsion paints, provide a beautiful matt coating that hides minor surface imperfections.
TORGA SEMI-GLOSS emulsion paints provide a luster to the walls which is easy to clean.
ARBO GlOSS alkyd/oil paint and TORGA HIGH-GLOSS emulsion paints are high gloss paints and work well for highlighting details, such as trims and decorative moldings.
When stored properly, an unopened can of latex/water-based or alkyd/oil-based paint should have a shelf life of 1 year. The best storage for paint is in a cool, dry area, away from extreme hot and cold temperatures. Paint should never be allowed to freeze and should be stored away from heat-generating appliances
For latex/water-based paint, use soap and water.
For alkyd/oil-based paint, use recommended thinner as mentioned on the product label.
Be sure to clean brushes thoroughly at the end of each day.
Most paint products are ready to go right out of the can with no reduction necessary. Some products can be reduced to some degree. The product’s data page will indicate the maximum reduction allowed if any and the correct type of reducer. Please note that reducing a paint product past the recommended levels would produce a solution that may not offer the same performance characteristics as those indicated on the product’s data page. Always use the recommended solvent and never reduce past the amounts recommended on the product label.
FLOOR PAINTS are used for walk-on surfaces and are formulated to withstand weather and wear on wood and concrete. They come in both oil-based and latex formulas.
For Low to Medium traffic area, use emulsion based TORGA FLOOR PAINT or oil-based RUBBERISED FLOOR PAINT. (Note: Conventional floor paints will not resist hot tyre pick up, as the hot tyres are exposed to the floor paint, the paint sticks to the tires and is lifted off.)
For High traffic area, use EPOXY TOP ENAMEL
Note: Before painting any concrete floor, check for dampness, grease and oil spillage and the smoothness of the concrete.
If the concrete is damp : Don’t paint! Find the source of the water and arrest it.
If the concrete has Oil /grease spillage: Use degreaser (TSP) and soap and pressure wash it .
If the concrete is smooth: Etch the concrete with 20% muriatic acid; a properly etched surface should have the texture of medium grit sandpaper which will allow immediate water penetration and will ensure material adherence.
Generally, one gallon Oil paint will cover 300-350 square feet and a gallon of Emulsion paint will cover 350-400 square feet. However, the quality and type of the paint can affect how much it will cover. The label on the paint can usually provide some guidance.
In addition, there are a number of factors that affect how much paint you will need. These include the type of surface being covered, the color currently on the surface and the color being applied.
Yes, but you must make sure you clean it extremely well. It’s best if you just buy two sets of brushes, one for latex and one for oil-based paints. Natural bristles work well only with oil-based paints.
The best answer is whatever you feel comfortable with. A bigger brush holds more paint and applies it more quickly, but it is also harder to control.
POLY WOOD STAIN and NC WOOD STAIN are used to change the appearance of the wood, such as to bring out the definition in the wood grain or match the look of another species of wood.
Varnish, such as ARBO LAC provides a clear, transparent coating that is durable and hard. Varnishes also come in a variety of finish from matt to high gloss.
You can use RIP-OFF PAINT REMOVER. It's simple to use and makes removing paint and varnish quick and easy! Apply the remover on the surface from which you wish to remove paint or varnish, and wait 5 minutes maximum for blistering to take place then easily scrape off the paint or varnish. Easily clean up with water and soap.
These numbers stand for the number of particles per square inch. The higher the number, the finer the sandpaper.
Aluminum oxide is a good multi-purpose sandpaper. It cuts fast and lasts a long time. It’s usually best to use three different grits of sandpaper. Start with the #150, which is a coarser grade. Follow this with increasingly finer grades. Sand with the grain of the wood at all times. For sanding fine woodworking projects, you may want to use garnet sandpaper.
Most products are supplied ready to use right out of the can. Some products do require thinning. Read the product label carefully, which will indicate the maximum amount of thinners one need to use and the type of thinners to use. Please note that thinning a paint, past the recommended levels or using a different thinner, would drastically hamper the performance characteristics of the product.
The type of solvent used in the paint is what makes the difference between oil and water based paints. Oil based paints or Alkyd Paints, use hydrocarbons like mineral spirits, xylene, etc., as solvents, while water based paints use mainly water as their solvent.
Oil based paint, will have stronger odor as compared to water based paint and it takes longer period to dry than the water based paints. Typically for painting concrete substrate Torga Matt emulsion /Torga Semi gloss Emulsion /Torga Hi gloss Emulsion is recommended.
For painting wooden substrates, Arbogloss oil paint is recommended.
No. Torga Masonry waterproofer is recommended to use on cured concrete only. Please allow the concrete to cure at least a minimum of 45 days before applying the waterproofer.
Efflorescence is a white crystalline deposit that forms on masonry surfaces as the masonry dries. Efflorescence is primarily cause by excessive moisture in the masonry and is simply part of the natural drying process. As the moisture in the mortar and brick, block, or concrete works its way out of the wall, it brings with it the salts that develop on the surface as the moisture evaporates.
No. Mildew can grow in any area that is dark and moist with limited air movement. Paints can be formulated to inhibit mildew growth, but under some conditions mildew eventually will reappear on any type of paint. A cleaning or maintenance schedule is the best protection in such environments.
In addition to the use of fungi-kill to clean the mold growth, one can use wash all -washing cleanser to clean the building. Do not mix any other chemicals with these cleaners. Please note these products could affect the overall finish on the existing surface and should only be used if you are planning to repaint the surface.
Lap marks are created when a wet edge is not maintained while painting. It can also be caused when the paint is applied in a vertical motion only.
Make sure to keep a wet edge and spread the paint in a “w” or “m” pattern on the wall. This will help spread the coating and create an even film on the surface. Once this is done, you can go right back over that area and lightly roll from top to bottom to minimize a “shadowing” effect in the dried film.
No primers are not always needed when repainting.
If you are repainting a similar color, you can lightly sand the paint to remove the gloss, and clean the surface. Once that is completed, you can simply repaint over the existing coating. More than one coat may be needed for uniformity.
Please note that switching sheens, or drastic color changes, may require the use of torga first coat concrete primer for concrete or and arbo under coat for wood , as the case may be.
Brushes typically are used for smaller spaces, to cut in to corners, and to paint along the trim lines. When these two painting methods meet, you can encounter a picture-framing problem with paint.
Picture-framing can also be caused by
- Uneven application of paint.
- Paint that hasn't been mixed well.
- Spraying paint in small spaces that impede even application.
To prevent picture-framing:
- Paint corners and edges of one section at a time, maintaining a wet edge when painting.
- Use rollers as much as possible. Rollers hold more paint, distribute the paint more evenly than a brush and get the job done much faster.
- Take your roller as close to the corners as you can while painting a wall.
No, Torga Masonry waterproofer is not designed to use on floors.
The white powdery particles noticed on the wall with moisture problems is not fungus but efflorescence. Efflorescence appears when soluble alkali salts are carried to the surface of concrete and masonry by water. Once the water evaporates, the salts are left behind leaving a whitish, mineral stain on the surface. Use Torginol efflo-clean efflorescence cleaner for treating the deposit before carrying out any painting.
For a permanent solution, many parameters has to be taken care of. The first step would be to evaluate what is actually causing the efflorescence. Efflorescence is caused from moisture and can happen in several ways. Improper wall ventilation, no weep vents, flashing issues, parapet caps, cracks in the mortar joints, walls exposed to the elements with no sealer, etc. Can cause problems. Addressing the above issues in combination with the use of torginol efflo-clean and torga masonry waterproofer would provide the desired results.
